Мистецтво культових деталей: «Червона помада. Ода іконі краси»

Рейчел Фелдер — журналістка, яка спеціалізується на дослідженні питань краси, трендів та індустрії моди. Цього разу під її приціл потрапила червона помада (і недарма — її складно не помітити!) як певний образ чогось бажаного, який ми звикли бачити по телевізору, як символ впевненості, як атрибут модного культу. Червону помаду Рейчел обожнює настільки, що поставила нафарбовані нею губи на аватарку своєї сторінки в instagram та часто мимоволі її фотографує у різних проявах — червоний слід на чашці з кавою, яскравий макіяж на манекені, портрети відомих особистостей з чітко вираженими губами. Що ж, перевіримо, як її захоплення віднайшло свій прояв у книзі «Червона помада. Ода іконі краси», бо вже маємо щодо цього #ДвіДумки. 

Оглядачки

Мар’яна Хемій: Косметика — моя друга (після книжок, звісно) пристрасть. Щомісяця зростає колекція баночок із засобами для догляду та новими відтінками декоративної косметики. І навіть попри розуміння, що користуватися існуючими засобами зможу ще кілька років — аж поки вони не закінчаться, не можу забрати у себе приємність купівлі й нового експерименту. Згадую радість, яку відчуваю, обираючи, очікуючи й пізніше розгортаючи посилку, тому цілеспрямовано позбавити себе цих емоцій для мене було б надто жорстоко. Хоча ритуалів з повним мейком дотримуюся лише на вихідних і перед важливими івентами — тож більшість часу вони все ж лежать без діла.

Юля Дутка: У мене багато косметики, кілька полиць, кілька коробок: ціла колекція масок, кремів для обличчя та вигадливих туб з кремами для рук, та найбільша моя guilty pleasure — помади. І хоч щоразу обіцяю собі, що не заводитиму нові, поки не закінчу хоч якусь, але американська б’юті-підписка щомісяця надсилає мені нову. Але навіть майже з трьома десятками помад постійно шукаю нові відтінки та текстури.

Робота фешн-фотографа Шалонера Вудса, 1955 рік

Моя червона помада

Юля: Перша червона помада з’явилась у мене не так давно — і то як випадковість, виграш, завдяки всесильному рендомайзеру. До того не дозволяла собі виходити за межі нюдових тілесних та злегка рожевих блисків та строгу прозорість гігієнічних помад. Та, як зараз пам’ятаю, була зухвалого відтінку Firecracker — насиченого класичного червоного, який красиво виглядає на фото, на сцені, але ж… не в житті. Та вона мені підійшла! Звісно, щоб наносити її, потрібна була тверда рука та більше часу, але ж результат! Рейчел Фелдер наголошує на тому, що червона помада вимагає зосередженості, не можна фарбуватись нею на ходу (а тим паче на бігу!). А ще — гарної шкіри, тому, якщо любите червону помаду, подбайте про рівний тон.

Ту помаду я так і не закінчила (на жаль), але вона досі лежить в шухляді для фото (так, вона чудово імітує свіжу кров, тож періодично використовую її для відгуків на трилери), але з того часу в мене з’явилось чимало яскравих класично червоних, соковито ягідних та глибоких винних помад. Тому що червоні помади таки пасують всім (треба тільки знайти свій червоний), а от фіолетові — аж ніяк (перевірено!).

З червоною помадою я завжди почуваюсь впевненіше (часом і привабливіше) і загалом більш розкуто. А ти, Мар’яно? На тебе діє магія червоної помади?

Мар’яна: Колись на одному з майстер-класів з макіяжу почула фразу: «Червона помада пасує усім, треба тільки підібрати правильний відтінок». І, можна сказати, це усвідомлення змінило моє життя. Тепер в колекції близько 10 червоних помад різних відтінків, а серед поставлених собі завдань на рік — носити їх на щодень, не чекаючи свята чи особливих приводів. Тим більше — нанісши яскраву помаду сама створюєш це відчуття свята і винятковості дня, одразу покращується настрій і навіть світ сприймається по-іншому (пішла фарбувати губи червоним 😉 ).

Символіка, історія, мода

Юля: Пам’ятаєте вугільні стрілки Клеопатри? Додайте до цього ще яскраво-червоні вуста, бо імператорка любила помаду. Вона не знала про правило: акцент або на очі, або на губи. А навіть, якщо й знала, то не мусила йому підкорятись. Адже хто командуватиме імператоркою? Для Клеопатри помаду виготовляли з вельми дорогого інгредієнту, який подекуди використовують і зараз, — кошенілі (це перетерті жуки — приємного мало, але який красивий червоний колір виходить).

Червону помаду любили й у давньому Єгипті, і у середньовічній Франції, і на Венеційських карнавалах, і надто у ХХ столітті. Вона була красивою, але часто небезпечною: не тільки свинцеві білила вбивали жінок, але й помада з ртуттю.

Вона стала заявою суфражисток, які не боялись заявити про себе червоною помадою (яку для того сприймали виключно як атрибут актрис та… повій).

«Червона помада — як декларація сили, впевненості, хоробрості та жіночності — стала для жінок іще одним способом виявити свою дотичність до руху, — пише Рейчел Фелдер. — Помада також засвідчувала відхід від традицій та опротестовувала ставлення суспільства до жінок, що її носили».

Під кінець ХХ століття мода на червону помаду пішла на спад, щоб у ХХІ повернутись у силі та славі. Чи є тепер вона таким же потужним символом, як тоді? Не надто, адже зараз бути вільною можна й без помади. Але комусь з нею, особливо тою червоною, яка ідеально пасує, якось приємніше.

Мар’яна: Прагнення жінки мати ефектний вигляд, бути доглянутою і панувати над своїм віком не залежить від часу й обставин, в яких вони жили чи живуть. Але статус і статки дають ширше поле для експериментів, і жінки згодні йти на жертви, навіть ціною власного здоров’я, як ми це прочитали вище.

Макіяж і виразні губи є неодмінним атрибутом кіно, і тут теж не оминути ієрархії — на зйомках фільмів, де головну героїню грала Елізабет Тейлор, іншим акторкам забороняли використовувати помади яскравих червоних відтінків, щоб не перебирати увагу, призначену Тейлор.

Червона помада в різний час була візитівкою Мерилін Монро, Одрі Гепберн, Мадонни та інших зірок шоу-бізнесу. «Висока шляхетність цього кольору робить червону помаду улюбленим аксесуаром для червоної доріжки — із нею приходять і Ріанна та Леді Ґаґа, що задають моду й лишаються на її вістрі, і Джуліанна Мур та Наталі Портман, які віддають перевагу стилю, ближчому до класики».

Помаду використовували у фільмах, незалежно від того, чи в зображувану епоху вона використовувалась:

«Чи червоні губи, чи ні — залежить від моди того часу, в який знімалося кіно, — пояснює Дебора Надулман Лендіс, засновниця й директорка Центру вивчення дизайну костюмів імені Девіда Коплі при Школі театру, кіно й телебачення UCLA. — Губи в кіно червоні тоді, коли перевагу червоній помаді віддають глядачки, решта не має значення».

Ілюстрації до французької реклами помади 50-х років. Автор – Рене Ґрюо
Вейн Тібо, «Lipstiks» («Помади»), 1964 рік

Помадні війни

Юля: Інноваційні формули, ще не бачені відтінки, зручніша упаковка (помади ж не завжди пакували у звичні нам «гільзи», які можна викрутити навіть однією рукою), агресивний маркетинг — виробники помади дозволяли собі не зовсім чесну конкуренцію у рекламі, воюючи через стійкість, блиск, об’єм. Звісно, там не доходило до хрестоматійних порівнянь, як серед засобів для миття посуду, але ролик чи банер у шоу, яке дивились переважно жінки, — і продажі злітають до небес. А ще, якщо продукт облюбує якась зірка… звабливі вуста, як у Мерлін Монро — чому б і ні?

Як на мене, найбільшого успіху тут досяг Макс Фактор, який зробив ставку на лак у тон помаді — червоні уста та не менш звабливі червоні нігтики. Стати законодавцем моди — це завжди вигідно. Непогана, до речі, була мода, хоча добре, що минулась, адже я страшенно люблю фіолетові лаки, а помада цього кольору, як вже казала, геть не пасує.

В історії помади було не тільки переманювання клієнтів, а й працівників! Кожен новий відтінок сприймали як подію. Це тепер кожен більш-менш великий бренд щороку випускає новинки та кілька лімітованих відтінків, які треба купувати вже, бо потім не буде. Глянцеві, матові, металік, лакові — як між ними вибрати? Матові ж вже не в моді, так? Але ж їхня стійкість…

Нюдова проти червоної — хто ж переможе?

Мар’яна: Хіба матові вже не в моді? З’являються все нові й нові колекції, бренди експериментують з текстурами, пропонують революційну стійкість — коли від доторків помада не розтирається і не залишається ані на щоках, ані на бокалах чи одязі. І все ще залишається матовою.

У битві нюдової й червоної я б не ставила на когось одного — впевнена, у різноманітті вибору сила. Не кожна з нас обирає той один відтінок, з яким їй добре, раз і назавжди. Ми експериментуємо, досліджуємо, зрештою, робимо акцент на очах — і тоді доводиться обирати для губ щось стриманіше.

Рафаель Сойе, «Café Scene» («Сцена в кафе»), приблизно 1940 рік
Друкована реклама для помади Montezuma Red від Elizabeth Arden. Творці відтінку надихалися червоними елементами форми Жіночого корпусу морської піхоти США

Пряма мова

«Коли день не вдався, завжди можна скористатись помадою» (Одрі Гепберн).

«Червоний — це енергійний та життєдайний колір. Власне, це і є колір життя. Я люблю червоний і думаю, що він пасує до будь-якої статури і будь-якого часу. У кожного є свій відтінок червоного» (Крістіан Діор).

«Ти або пасуєш до червоної помади — або ні» (Боббі Браун).

«Швидкий мазок помади на губах додає хоробрості. Від червоного мазка губи перестають тремтіти. На коротку мить ця маленька туба набуває сили меча».(«Червоний знак мужності», Harper’s Bazaar, листопад 1937 року).

Хустинки із зображенням помади від Джонатана Адлера
Ріта Гейворт на кадрі з фільма «Gilda» («Гільда»), 1946 рік

Кому варто читати

Мар’яна: Усім, хто дозволяє червоній помаді бути — незалежно від того, чи ви вже її прихильниця, або ж тільки роздумуєте над тим, чи не спробувати б. Тим, хто любить історію стилів, моди загалом та певних їхніх складових зокрема. Кому подобається роздивлятися ефектні реклами, фотопортрети та занурюватися в різні епохи, звертаючи увагу на деталі.

Юля: Помадним маніячкам та косметичним гуру, а також тим, хто любить візуальні книжки, які гортати один кайф.

Кому не варто читати

Юля: Байдужим до косметики та її місця в історії.

Мар’яна: Якщо ви очікуєте глибокий аналіз феномену червоної помади. Якщо не цікавитеся модою, косметикою.

Схожі книги

Юля: «Виживання найгарніших. Наука краси» Ненсі Еткофф — там чимало про червоні уста та їхню привабливість, «Писана краса» Лізи Елдридж — про історію косметики та, певна річ, помаду.

Yakaboo
Найбільша online-книгарня України. Любимо книжки понад усе:)

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вы где[/url] 265ac92
    [/QUOTE]
    [b]Марк[/b], И мне такого… мне уже 18 лет.

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